Once I finished with that, I proceeded to press down the button pad. I also found one more obstruction preventing it from laying flat down upon the back of the D-Pad. I used a pair of wire cutters to snip off some of the excess from the alignment hole and create some clearance. This was to allow the pad to sit properly, This resulted in the pad folding upwards in the center. The next issue was the button pads pre-cut entry holes that did not fit onto the current configuration.
#USB SERIAL CONTROLLER D NOT RECOGNIZED FULL#
I was able to successfully place the full original D-Pad into the controller’s opening. Once completed I finished blowing off the debris. Then after shaving off the plastic wings, I held the Dremel at an angle to grind off a 3rd of it. Although I was unable to get it to to lay flat because of the wings attached to the pole piece in the corner. I worked off the rest of the wall and began on the L-shaped bits in the corners.Īfter all four sections were flattened, I attempted to seat the circular D-Pad.
![usb serial controller d not recognized usb serial controller d not recognized](https://tencomputer.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/prolific-usb-to-serial-comm-port-not-working.jpg)
Using a thin grinding stone bit, I began to whittle down the plastic support structures surrounding the D-Pad entry way. Realizing that this method was too brutish, I decided to grab my Dremel tool. I pinched this small plastic wall that was most prominently in the way between the pliers and twisted it slowly to the side, cracking it off.
#USB SERIAL CONTROLLER D NOT RECOGNIZED CRACK#
I started by grabbing some needle nose pliers and attempted to gently crack off some of the connected pieces. I decided to remove these obstructions and see if I could get the original D-Pad platter to seat comfortably. There are various pole pieces and other plastic shapes that prevent the rounded disc portion of the D-Pad to seat properly and at level with the faceplate. My first inclination was to simply swap out the D-Pad from the USB controller with the D-Pad from the original, but once you start looking at the inner design you’ll notice that that is not possible. You’ll also notice that the START and SELECT button pad is unified into a single rubber piece. The rubber button pad is also quite a bit larger than the one contained within the USB version.
![usb serial controller d not recognized usb serial controller d not recognized](https://forums.ni.com/legacyfs/online/171366_Deformation.png)
![usb serial controller d not recognized usb serial controller d not recognized](https://images.wondershare.com/recoverit/article/2019/05/choose-an-old-version.jpg)
Where the USB D-Pad is a simple cross shape the original NES D-Pad is a round plastic platter with the directional cross sitting atop. I wanted to see this for myself so I opened up an old broken NES controller and removed the innards. Most notably was this video which pointed out the difference in shape of the original and USB TOMEE D-Pads. However, when I started to look into this issue online I found other people who noticed the problem via message boards. Upon first examination there doesn’t appear to be anything outstanding that would cause such movement issues. It is simply removed by pulling the button pad upwards with some slight pressure. The D-Pad has its rubber button pad fixed atop the PCB by two elongated rubber fingers sticking through a couple of holes. The buttons are aligned with a notch in the plastic and simply fall out if you tip the faceplate over. Underneath the board you will find the rubber button pads fixed upon their corresponding plastic buttons. The PCB pulls right up with little resistance. I proceeded to remove the 6 screws in the back with a Phillips head screwdriver.Īs you can see there’s not a whole lot going on in there. In essence there’s a cheaper feel to this controller which seems to be a universal complaint among the NES USB clones. So I decided to open up the controller and dig around a bit. Overall, the main outstanding differences are the hard plastic START and SELECT buttons which were originally rubber and the all around lighter weight compared to the original controller. In a game like Contra, as illustrated in the above example, every single movement is life or death.Īesthetically the controller is very similar to an actual 1980’s NES version.
![usb serial controller d not recognized usb serial controller d not recognized](https://www.samkoon.store/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/sa-driver-10.jpg)
DOWN constantly fluctuates between DOWN+LEFT or DOWN+RIGHT, leaving your character vulnerable to oncoming attacks.Įven after a few minutes of gameplay your trust in yourself and the controller will be questioned, In turn, this makes any game that requires precision too difficult to play. The issue with the D-Pad is that despite how deliberately you press and hold a direction such as, DOWN to duck, the input almost always rolls over to the diagonals.